The Christian Survival Guide Go to the ant, thou sluggard. Consider her ways and be wise. Prov 6:6

29Jul/100

A problem with the ESEE lite machete and Maxpedition Pygmy Falcon II’s on sale

I couldn't resist taking out the new ESEE lite machete before this weekend so I went trailblazing with Desmond the survival dog. You might have already seen Woodsmonkey's vids on Youtube and boy is he right. This thing comes literally shaving sharp with a thin grind out of the box. But that ended up being a problem.

You see, with constant chopping a super thin grinds tend to roll and chip at the edge and that's exactly what happened. After two good hours of use through palmetto, Kudzu, and taking down small pine saplings the edge was chipped in several places. I was not happy. So I sent an email to ESEE which was promptly answered by Jeff Randall (the owner) and he's sending me a new machete with a less severe grind at no cost. He also explained how to work out the burrs and chips and put the proper angle on with a file - I used a smith's tri-hone. That's why I support ESEE/Rat, great service, knowledgeable staff, and true confidence in the product.

I will still use the machete I have this weekend for a video review.

I also wanted to let you guys know that Maxpedition has a load of factory second OD green Pygmy Falcon II's for $62.99 plus shipping. I know some people don't like that Maxpedition uses foreign produced bags but it's still American designed and American owned.

Filed under: Bushcrafting No Comments
27Jul/100

Update – Picked up a Savage 110 and gearing up for South Carolina

Sorry guys but I won't be posting much of anything this week as we're gearing up for a work weekend at the South Carolina lease. When I get back I'll have plenty of pics of the scout, a review of the new ESEE Lite Machete, and pics/video of the new box blind we're building.

I did pick up a Savage 110 with scope. Hopefully I'll have enough time to put that up in the "My first Deer" section.

In the meantime if you want to check out where we'll be hunting this year go to Buck Forest.

22Jul/100

Book Review – The Postman by David Brin

I literally just finished this book five minutes ago so the memory is fresh. Much more so than my recollection of the movie by the same name which was another bomb for Kevin Costner and was at best, loosely based on the novel. But nonetheless, here are my thoughts on this PAW fiction classic.

The story is set in a post-apocalyptic world that was brought on by a war where nuclear weapons were used. Fifteen or so years after the initial war we find ourselves face to face with Gordon Krantz, a loner type who is trying to find a place where true rebuilding is happening. All the while he moves from hamlet (author's word) to hamlet using his memory of classic plays to entertain townspeople and maybe get a meal and some resupply. While on the trail he is ambushed by hostile survivalists which forces him to escape, that's when he makes a startling find, an old USPS mail jeep. He takes shelter from the cold in the jeep where he finds a the remains of the old mailman. He takes the jacket and hat from the old dead man and uses them to fool people into believing he is an agent of the new American government sent to re-establish a mail route. That's when he finds himself forced to live a lie and spread hope.

The story has it's share of PAW standards, a small-scale war between rival factions, para-military organizations, some talk of primitive skills, etc. In and of itself the novel is a slightly better than average story, but of course I can't leave well enough alone. I did not like the portrayal of prepper types (pre-war) as basically, selfish and foolish hoarders who died lonely deaths soon after the initial war. The logic is flawed when considering that the "normal" non-preppers establish primitive communes and struggle, but are apparently doing OK and are at least alive. I consider this part of the book to be a major flaw and in some instances, slightly offensive.

But to be fair I did like the major emphasis on rebuilding in small communities with clear division of labor. In a true PAW I highly doubt there will be much of a time where utter isolation is considered the norm. I'd imagine a banding together of small communities to pool resources, barter, and eventually try to rebuild. The mentioning of arts like beer brewing were fun as well.

The book reads at a good pace. There weren't any moments where I thought "oh, c'mon, let's hurry this up". There was a fair amount of real story here instead of the story simply revolving around the setting (event that brought PAW). This differed a bit from books like Alas, Babylon and One Second After where the story is really just how a group of characters react to a PAW-inducing event.

For those who have seen the b-grade movie, the book is not the same at all. Costner (directed and starred) really short cut a few areas and doesn't follow the story arc. In my opinion he really didn't hit the main idea of the novel. Usually I can understand why movie adaptations of novels change certain things, dramatize a scene, or don't include smaller and less significant scenes that help character development. However in this movie they missed a lot of marks.

The verdict - Worth reading if you have no other books on your "to read" list available. Buy it used or check it out of the library. Not something I need to include in my prep library.

The movie, I'd only watch it again if it was on Hulu and I needed some background noise while working on a project.

21Jul/100

ESEE/Rat Rc-4 Sheath Modification

I have been taking a serious look at a new belt sheath for my RC-4 lately. The Molle back it came with really wasn't working on my belt and - wanted something with the capacity to hold small items of kit and maybe make the sheath into a small PSK (personal survival kit). The Spec-Ops Combat Master looked great, having that little pocket, but even the "short" sheath is shaped for a slightly longer blade. The typical KSF/Sharpshooter sheath didn't have a pocket, just a firesteel loop, and was $50. Every other decent option was more expensive than that. You'll see over time that when I'm frustrated in a product search or activity out comes the redneck engineer. So I start to thinking that maybe I can make a sheath myself or just modify the kydex body the RC-4 came with.

So I head on over to Youtube and take a look at Colhane's channel. He had a neck knife setup as a PSK using bicycle inner tube for flaps/pockets. I then remembered a Dave Canterbury video where he did something similar with a machete. Having made some "pathfinder" type gear myself I thought I could do the same with the kydex body. That would solve the pocket issue, but what about the belt carry?

As I looked around for images of different RC-4's I saw one mod where a poster on BladeForums used a piece of rappel grade webbing and some zipties to add a loop for his RC-6. That would be perfect if I sewed some loops to keep the webbing from shifting under the zip ties. I know I can do it now, and for cheap.

So while on a break at work I took some time to do this.

Materials - kydex sheath body, two 8" zip ties (will be cut), one 12" section of webbing (will be cut), 26"x1 3/8" inner tube, and I sewed the webbing loops with upholstery thread but that's not necessary.

Tools - knife/scissors, needle if you choose to sew loops in the webbing.

1) Cut a piece of webbing that will eventually serve as the belt loop. You could also use old belt leather or even paracord as an alternative. I chose to sew several sections so the webbing wouldn't shift. Cut it to reach an inch lower than you plan the lowest zip tie to be but long enough for the sheath to ride where you want it.

2) Put the zip ties into as many rivet holes as you'd like. I think two is fine.

3) Loop the webbing and place it where you'd like height-wise against the body. Remember to place it for righty/lefty.

4) Cinch down the zip ties and cut the excess. That will create the belt loop section. You should be able to modify these plans for horizontal carry fairly easily

5) Cut inner tube to the size pockets you want. Remember that the larger you cut the pieces the harder it will be to stretch them and slide them into place.

6) Starting with the top pocket slide the inner tubes into place with each new piece overlapping the "bottom" of the higher piece. I'll admit, this part is difficult. This will create the pockets.

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Now that I've completed the "construction" I'll have to put together a PSK on the sheath. I'll post better pictures when it's complete.

19Jul/100

Update – Mid/Late July

Well guys we are over 11000 hits now and growing fairly well! Due to the growth and a request I have been working with my hosting provider to get a forum up and running. I spent quite a bit of time chatting with them this weekend and it's looking like it should be good to go by next Saturday.

I just put in an order for an ESEE lite machete and should be having a serious testing session come the 30th when we go up to South Carolina to work on the hunting lease. Might do some video with the Henry .22lr while we're up there. I am also considering trying to import a Karrimor Sabre for my next pack review. Hopefully by the end of the week we will have some photos of a sheath mod for the ESEE/Rat RC-4. In addition to all that I've got a few more videos planned out but not yet filmed due to the nearly daily heavy rains we've been getting in my area. I'd do it anyways but it makes for horrible video quality.

So as always if you have any requests, comments, questions, or concerns please contact me at TheChristianSurvivalGuide@gmail.com - Thanks, Tyson

17Jul/100

Gear Review – 5.11 Rush 12 after one month

5.11 Rush 12

- For video check here -

I have been searching for the perfect pack since I began getting serious about the woods. Starting with a Target special sling bag and progressing through various vendors and designs. For my most common need I think a two strapped version of the Maxpedition Sitka would be great. Or maybe a new Pygmy Falcon with a hydration carrier and a back plate. Something a bit smaller than a true daypack but with at least 1000d nylon and a little support. Having used a 5.11 Rush 24 for some hard months through the Ocala National Forest at a wilderness therapy camp, I grew to appreciate 5.11 designs. So naturally when I saw the 5.11 Rush 12, I thought my perfect pack was on it's way.

5.11 has a short history with packs only having produced three true packs in conjunction with VTAC. All having been designed in the past five years or so with little to update or improve the design. Luckily the designs are pretty decent. 5.11 likes to include quick release buckles on straps, cuts the shoulder pads at a curve for a more ergonomic fit, and includes decent options for hydration carrier capability. One of my favorite 5.11 features is the padded eyewear pocket near the top strap. The Rush 12 doesn't deviate from these designs, just miniaturizes them.

For a while now it's been pretty difficult to come by the Rush 12. Apparently 5.11 made a limited run of them, I'm assuming they weren't confident they could gain enough market share over Maxpedition when it comes to smaller packs. I found mine from a random Ebay vendor that usually sells only challenge coins and the like. I thought it weird but it was verified new in the bag with tags still on it and at $72 plus $5 or so for shipping, I was down.

Size comparison with a cheap Target pack and the Maxpedition Sitka

So it comes, I open the box and rip the bag out like it's an Atari at Christmas. I hold the bag up ala Lion King and commence the inspection. All the seams look tight, no fraying, zippers are smooth (all YKK's), buckles aren't deformed. Well alright, I won't need to return it. On to the pockets - the main pockets and compartments. The main compartment is almost the same as the 24 and 72 with a bungee pocket on the back wall and two zippered mesh pockets on the front wall. They have taken away the bottom zippers but I don't really see any harm in that. The hydration carrier pouch is all the same, two hooks and a velcro loop up top - hang your bladder in there, thread the drinking tube up through the access slot and into the velcro ports on top of the bag. There are ports on both sides but when you thread the tube onto the shoulder pads the only real option is the left side as this is where the sternum strap's keeper loop is. The Admin pouch is again, a mini version of the 24, two key keepers, all kinds of small flaps/pockets, two deep pockets on the front flap that will hold a .5L bottle of water each, and a zippered pocket at the back. The padded eyewear pocket on the top is now a staple of 5.11 products - don't lose that, design guys, and Maxpedition take note! The only real difference with the Rush 12 is the "top pocket". The 24/72 had a split pocket with a perfect set up for cell phones, small wallets, compass and firesteel, etc. In the 12 it is one pocket about 4.5" deep and maybe 8" long and its not padded or separated any further. Its a great place to dump your wallet and keys but that's about it. I would have rather seen another split pocket design even if miniaturized.

Holding a 17 inch laptop

The exterior is the same ol' PALs webbing (credit BobtheBreaker from ZS for clarifying that). I don't really use any Molle accessories and I'd actually like to see a version without all the tacti-cool webbing. But that isn't this review. The stitching looks strong but I've had issues with my 24 in the past and I'm not confident that they won't break loose in the future. And yeah, I know I won't use it so there's no point if the webbing does get loose but I paid for it, I want it to be quality regardless. There are some added buckles at the bottom of the pack to add webbing and make a waist strap. I see this as completely unnecessary - the pack isn't big enough. Should have thought about that with the 24, though. The back plate is ok. It adds rigidity but retains heat and allows no airflow - equals swamp back. No padding, either. Luckily the straps are quite comfortable up to about 18 lbs.

I've had the pack for a little over a month now. I take it to work, use it to walk the dog (loooong walks), run with it on, and have taken it through the brush while scouting. These are my findings:

Showing the depth

If you plan on stuffing this thing with some work goodies and a laptop (in a sleeve) it's great. Highly organized and comfortable for car to office kind of carry. I think 5.11 takes an edge over Maxpedition when it comes to EDC as their organizational options are a bit better, and with this new reduced size, they finally have a true contender for the desk bound Sheep dogs.

However, in the bush this bag is hot (only comes in black), is not breathable on your back, and creates way too much condensation with the back plate. Add to that a somewhat inferior fabric durability and I'm just turned off. I am not confident in this bag's ability to stay together over the long run. There are most certainly better options in the $100-$150 range if you can throw a bit more cash at it. Even in the same sub $100 range the Pygmy Falcon II is a better bush bag (sans hydration carrier ability).

The verdict: Great EDC bag, not so great in the bush. For well under $100 its a cool piece of kit if you like the tactical black approach, for those who prefer a greyman approach check out Mountainsmith in the same price range.

16Jul/100

Book Review – A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson

Caution: The language and some situations in this book are not kid safe.

The Read: So I have an affinity for wilderness adventure books and this one has been noted on many backpacking forums as one of the most comical and entertaining books ever written about hiking. I've had it on my list of 'to read's for a while now and just kept putting it off. I don't rightly know why as it's central figure is the Appalachian Trail, a place I have long dreamed of hiking and which goes through what is in my opinion the prettiest slice of America, the Blue Ridge or as better known, The Great Smoky Mountains.

The author, Bill Bryson, is also the main character as the book is a telling of his own hike through the AT. He is quick and witty and has a great sense of timing. His portrayal of the characters on the trail (mostly fellow hikers and hostel owners) is just plain funny. Often when entering a new park or section of trail he will sort of stop for a little education and history of the park. At times this can get a bit preachy and in the few instances he speaks at length in this manner, interrupts the cadence of the storytelling.

The thing I really loved about this book was that it did not over-glorify the hiking experience. In fact, Bryson speaks with a self-depricating prose about his age and being ill-equipped for the trail. He and his companion, Katz, were both a bit older and not physically prepared, plus under-experienced for a thru-hike. This made for great comedic moments like throwing extra food off the trail in a hilarious fit of rage because of it's weight. Bryson also had a serious fear of bears that almost seems central to the story. The interactions and sarcasms exchanged with Katz, Bryson's hiking companion for a good portion of the book are just awesome. The times where Bryson is without him on the trail you miss his presence.

The one thing I did not like was the amount of enviromental preachiness. Especially when Bryson tells of his encounter with a moose. He goes on to call selective culling and lottery permitted hunting of moose, "slaughter". And while I agree that commercialism inside National Parks defeats the purpose they were created for, I also see it as a sort of necessary evil to pay for their own staffing. A constant complaint from Bryson is the underfunding of the National Park System, yet he also speaks of the NPS as if it was staffed by a pack of incompetents anyways. There was one short moment where Bryson spoke sarcastically of wanting to make sure his doors locked at night after meeting a young Christian couple at a boarding house. Their causation for fear, they prayed. Quietly and on their own, mind you, not involving others at the table. Luckily this was a quick moment and he did not drag on with it.

I got the book for a steal on Amazon (that used book set up they have is great!) and paid about $5 total for the paperback version. It was well worth the money. I suppose the book would not have the same humorous and sarcastic flavor if Bryson didn't occasionally rag on the NPS or stereotype some characters, but still, some of it crept up on "the line" though for me, it did not pass it.

The Verdict: I have to say if you're interested in hiking the AT or just like a witty travel story, it's a must read. Expect to laugh out loud and be offended all in the same chapter, just don't pay full retail.

14Jul/100

What “I’ll just go to your house if it happens” means to me

Have you ever been talking with somebody about prepping, possibly trying to convince them to get on it and they fire back with, "well why can't I just go to your house when ______ happens?". This type of comment frustrates me to no end. Especially when I'm speaking with persons known to be a little more libertarian or those with a better financial situation than me. But nonetheless this is our world and we have a decision to make.

Say the ZA does come and friend/family/co-worker/random whoever is knocking on your door, do you let them in? Depending on your morals/ethics/faith/preferences you can choose what you will. I'm not here to sway you one way or another but you'll get my opinion soon enough. The point is, if you choose to say yes, how many more? And when it's all said and done, did you prep enough for ________ number of people?

The point is that we can only prep so much and support so many as our resources will realistically allow. Maybe you have a good income, great, stock up. Maybe you have a good harvest every year with your farm or garden, awesome! But eventually you're going to have to put a number on it. A number that quantifies a finite ability to support an amount of people and more than likely for a finite amount of time.

I recently had a discussion about building a long term storm kit with family and how much food was needed. I always start with 30 days of food for your household (two to five people, this time it was two) as its usually immediately financially feasible. But there are always "what if's" to throw their way if they don't get to it first. This time, the person I was speaking with figured it out before I needed to interject the idea. So it started, "What if my son and his wife come? I think they would" and I replied that he would divide the number in half, meaning they now have 15 days, then of course the inevitable, "I think my wife's friend and husband would come, they have a child" Ok, again divide in half plus a child at half the consumption rate of an adult, that's the original 30 day supply for two divided by 4.5 now, you're now at just under seven days of food. So you can see that with just a few additional people our supply of food/water/etc. is diminished rapidly.

Now, my opinion is as grey as can be and I certainly don't want to be the bad guy, but I would not be honest if I said I'd be taking in all who come, even family. I believe in charity and giving, but I also believe in stewardship and personal responsibility. The decision to turn people away would depend greatly on the severity of the event and how quickly we can reasonably expect aid and rebuilding. I actually plan to prep for "give aways" just for this reason. A few bags of rice or five gallon buckets of whatever consumables from a big box bulk store would be great to give somebody who you can't take in, but feel is in need of the charity. Unfortunately, the cruel, ugly fact of life is that we cannot fix the broken world by ourselves and in a post-event situation you may be endangering yourself or your family by doing so.

So now I ask you, how are you effected by the "I'll just come to you's" and what will you do when they come knocking, begging to come in?

13Jul/100

How to build a Storm Readiness Kit

Here's an argument for the government sheeple that proclaim all is well if a weather event comes, because FEMA is there to help us! Well, not really. You see, even FEMA has asked that all families have enough food, water, and medicine on hand for three days (link at bottom of article).

Here in Florida we face a strong chance of being effected by hurricanes, storm surges, and the near daily onslaught of late summer thunderstorms that can sometimes kick up winds near 55 mph without notice blowing down trees and flooding streets. I'm sure the same or similar holds true in one way or another for other areas of the country. So for instances where the power goes out for a few hours or a few days, the water main breaks, or trees come down on your car, you could use a simple collection of supplies to make yourself a little more comfortable.

A Storm Kit does not have to be as readily portable as a 72 hour kit or Bug Out Bag and can be in a stocked bunker if you so choose as the goal is to pass the time as comfortably as possible in your own home and minimize damage if you can. However, if you plan on using a vehicle to bug out it might be a good idea to keep a small portion of this kit in rubbermade bins or something similar so that they can be carried to the vehicle by an able-bodied adult to compliment your Bug Out Gear.

Your basics in any kit will always include food, water, and medicine/first aid. While we assemble portable BOBs we place a premium on weight savings and prefer to carry dehydrated goods and limit actual water carry in favor of filtration devices. In your Storm Kit weight and space will not be such as issue. So make sure to have plenty of ready-to-go foods that do not need complex preparations and gallon jugs of potable water. That way your time can be spent on repairing any damage to your home, keeping the kids calm, or assisting in clean up.

Next is light, if you like candles or open flames in the fireplace, great! Just remember that they are serious fire hazards and in a worse case scenario, Fire Resuce will already be plenty busy. If you go this route please remember a fire extinguisher or three. You should have one on hand anyways, but as a reminder, get one! Flashlights are of course an awesome tool and are portable. I prefer Petzl LED headlamps for hands free use and low power draw. I also prefer ones that can strobe for signaling and have selectable brightness settings such as my E41 Tikka. In any case, have plenty of batteries on hand. We use all AAA flashlights in our storm kit so that we only have one kind of battery to stock up on. It is best to buy quality lights as those wally-world specials usually have low-output and high power draw. To add, the bulbs are junk that will break with one drop. I'll do a review of my headlamp soon.

This may sound ridiculous but in a Storm Kit having some luxury items on hand is a necessity, especially if you have children. If you have kids don't forget a few simple entertainment items for them. Some board games or stack of UNO cards won't be space hogs when we're talking about several bins of preps. Children are extremely perceptive as you already know and will sense your stress level. Help to comfort them by engaging them in fun activities to create a sense of normalcy. It's also a great idea to include items you use as vices to help keep yourself off edge. If you smoke or dip, make sure a bit of tobacco is packed away somewhere. A few Hostess cakes are also a great idea for those with a regular sweet tooth.

If you have medicines that must be kept cold get a small cooler that fits on a shelf of your fridge/freezer . Hopefully you have a freezer capable of making ice. If you do, keep it active. If you don't make sure to keep a few bags of steamed veggies instead. When the power goes out dump some of your ice into the cooler, put your meds inside the cooler and stick it at the bottom of the freezer (or fridge if it can't be frozen). This will keep your meds good and cold after the fridge/freezer has raised to room temp. Your freezer should stay cool for 24-48 hours after lights out if the door is closed. This should be plenty of time but then again, I can remember 4-5 days of lights out for some "small" storms. So better safe than sorry. You can adjust this method for the fridge if meds can't be frozen.

Note: Some people think the cooler-in-freezer method works like a pot-in-pot cooler and thus, the interior of the cooler will be significantly colder than the freezer. This isn't so. Assuming the freezer is running, the cooler will only be as cold as the ambient air in the freezer. There is no evaporative effect because of the moisture being removed in the cooling process. If you want to understand the process search How a Freezer works on e-how.

If your budget and HOA (if you have one) should allow, invest in a simple propane grill and an extra tank of propane. It may not fit into a bin or be easily transported but its usable in the best of times and is a lifesaver for meal preparation should you get tired of Chef Boyardee or know the meat in your freezer will go bad if not cooked now. Not to mention that a hot meal is a great morale booster. Just make sure to get two tanks with one full tank always at the ready. Rotate the tanks and get the empty refilled ASAP. Of course there are many iterations of this idea, Coleman/camp stoves, charcoal grilles, fire pits, etc. and all of them are viable options. But you'll need to think about which one you'll get more value from.

I will assume that if you're riding out a storm at home that clean clothes will be available, but suffice to say, you should keep some hand-wash type detergent available and a bit of cordage for hang drying. This way should you by chance run out of clean clothing, you have options. If you plan to assist in clean up you will need some rough use clothing similar to what you may wear in the bush, or maybe just a good set of old jeans and a long sleeve cotton shirt. Think of what you see landscapers wearing, 'cause that's essentially what you'll be doing.

Note: Keep a few 2"x4"s about four feet long in closets near entrance/exit doors. If security becomes an issue wedge the wood under the door handle and a nail in the floor. Of course your windows and sliding glass doors are potential weaknesses but this method is great for a cheap and easy kick-proof door.

An often overlooked portion of kit is tools. Not just a Gerber multi or some screwdrivers but things to clear tree hazards and dig a quick latrine (if the water main breaks). A pair of work gloves, a two handled axe, a saw, machete and shovel can be had for less than $100 at any hardware store and should be more than ready for this kind of use. I wouldn't consider your camp hatchet and e-tool a good fit for heavy clearing work so if you have the cash and see the need, jump on it.

As found out when the power goes, the TV just doesn't do so good. Sometimes the cell towers work, sometimes they don't. So to keep updated about when the linemen may be out or any relief efforts available you may want to purchase a radio with internal power ability. You'll want something with the weather band but also AM/FM. Battery powered is fine if you plan on stocking the batteries, but crank or solar combined with a battery would be better. Be careful you don't get suckered into a whiz-bang set up from walgreens that will just as soon break as work, do your research and get a good unit. A small unit with solar would be a great piece of kit for the BOB, as well.

Depending on specific types of weather threats you may want to include some pre-fabricated supplies to harden weak areas. In Florida if you have the cash storm shutters are great. If you don't, it would be a good move to measure your windows and cut solid PT board to fit over them. Store in your garage or shed and never worry about that mad rush to home depot again. It'd be even better to leave brackets in place so that you and a buddy or spouse can put up the boards in an hour or so (assuming there's any warning) and not worry about sealing the holes left when you inevitably take the boards down. A roll of duct tape comes in handy if storage space is an issue. Taping a star or asterisk-like pattern on your windows should help with keeping glass from shattering but won't protect anything from impacting the glass in the first place. Moving large pieces of furniture against weak doors and windows is good should debris start flying into the house, but in a worst case scenario can slow rescue crews. If the storm is overhead it is best to seek a hallway or room in the center of the home, preferably with as few windows or doors as possible. There is some debate as to whether windows on the opposite sides of the house should be opened for cross winds and to keep the interior pressure in the house from being susceptible to a vacuum effect, but I have never seen a final word on it from a scientific point of view. You'll need to use your best judgment. Most important is to have a plan of procedures, and yes I know no battle plan survives contact with the enemy, but a plan helps with organization and presence of mind. Keeping one's wits about them is as important as any material prep.

Generators are a great source of debate. The good ones are expensive when things are good and priceless when things are bad. They are targets of theft either way and when running are loud and emit exhaust, thus are usually kept outside where some two-legged predators can hear, smell, and see. They aren't small either and for most people have little to no use when things are good. So please evaluate your possible uses of a generator before putting down $500 for one you may never have need of. If your principle uses of a genny would be charging phones/radios/running a hot plate maybe a good jump box with an inverter might be a better bang for your buck as it should be part of a solid vehicle kit anyways and will run silently.

So as a minimum you should compile a kit with -

1xGallon jug of water per person, per day
Food with atleast 3500 calories per person per day
Can openers and utensils
A good first aid kit with pain relievers, fever reducers, antibiotics (if available), bandages and dressings, scissors and tweezers
A surplus of prescribed meds
A tool kit with all the greatest hits
Light sources - candles, flashlights, batteries
An emergency procedures plan

Optional but highly recommended -

Fire extinguishers
Rubber bins for storage and portability
Weather band radio
Materials for hardening weak areas like doors and windows
A non-electric grill with fuel and starter
Heavy-work tools - saw, axe, machete, work gloves, shovel
Toys/games for kids
Extra clean clothes/work clothes
Generator or power inverter
Copies of important docs - insurance, ID, bank accounts (see Critical Documents Kit)
Toiletries - soap, TP, shaving kit, toothbrush/paste

This list is in no way all-inclusive. You should evaluate your own unique circumstances and identify possible areas of weakness in your preps.

For more information on what FEMA says about the matter, check out this link - www.ready.gov/america/getakit/

9Jul/100

Prepping priorities – Body Armor vs. Combatives Training w/video (Not kid safe)

Disclaimer: This posting details combatives which may not be suitable for children. Please monitor and preview material before allowing a child to read.

I have recently engaged in a healthy debate about the merits of body armor in your preps on www.ZombieHunters.org . The poster I am in opposition of does not have formal training and seems to believe that body armor should be placed before training (armed combatives and practical gunfighting) on a priorities table. I disagree. Here's why:

Creds - I am a former LEO and current supervisor and trainer of security professionals in Florida. Some courses of study I have training in or advise/train security for are close quarter combatives, situational awareness, and officer safety/officer survival. My opinions are based upon training and study in a professional environment.

I first have to say that the thread this debate started in was in specific address to armor for a zombie attack (not a joke, check it out) and has spun off into this "wild" tangent. I did not take much interest in weighing in on the topic until I read a statement that essentially said, "body armor can be used as mobile cover". This deserved a response.

Let me first start by saying bullet-proof vests (body armor) aren't exactly what the name would imply. There are multiple levels of resistant ability in vests and wearable armor but none are completely bullet-proof. Let me explain, the mechanic used by the vest is a tightly woven fabric which is layered multiple times to create a sort of lightweight, penetration resistant garment. Think of a linear path of travel with the vest in the way and a projectile is in motion. The projectile makes contact with the garment, its kinetic energy is moving forward, the vest absorbs some of this energy (theoretically enough to keep the projectile from penetrating) and the rest is dissipated over a larger area.

Sounds great, right? No holes in you! But not all is well. You see, the problem is the dissipation of the remaining kinetic energy. The more KE the projectile has the more surface area is needed for that KE to be absorbed, and as that energy is absorbed the projectile is still moving forward at a rapid pace and pushing the vest into contact with your body. At that point your body also becomes surface area in which to dissipate KE, which results in blunt force placed on the contacted areas.

That's right folks, a BPV (bullet-proof vest) does not make you superman and bullets do not deflect off of you, they are absorbed. This can lead to serious blunt force trauma, cardiac arrest, collapsed lungs, severe internal hemorrhaging, and cracked or fractured ribs. Some of these situations can be just as fatal as if the bullet hit soft flesh. Body armor is great and can save lives, I wear a level IIIA at work when needed and I am a very strong proponent of vest wear by all duty personnel, but wearable body armor is most certainly NOT mobile cover!

A good, fitted BPV can be purchased by civilians for around $500. Of course you can find some for less and quite a few for more, but I recommend as a minimum level IIIA and suggest you have a vest fitted to your body size/shape for comfort. That can cost a little extra but believe me, is worth it if armor is in your plans.

Now inversely, training - the first thing LEO's and security learn when in training to engage armed persons is to seek out and move to cover as quickly as possible. NOT to stand and engage because your armor should be enough. Why do we train this way? Because statistically speaking Officers who seek cover during an armed confrontation have a higher rate of survival than those who stand (and even engage) as static targets in open ground. We train to reduce ourselves as viable targets. If rounds moving downrange cannot make contact with us there is little need of armor. Please keep in mind the spirit of the debate here, not saying you shouldn't wear armor.

To demonstrate what I'm saying you can view many different in-dash cams of OIS on the internet. I am choosing not to embed or name these videos on my site for kid safe reasons but if you do watch them they should explain this fairly well.

Some of the commonalities in a lot these cases - Officers had low situational awareness, they became stunned from the adrenal dump or they stood static to engage as if shooting a paper target at the range, they did not use proper shooting fundamentals, and most importantly...they did not move and seek cover. It is considered taboo to say what I just said, to speak of the failures of the dead, but I believe as a trainer that it is important to find commonalities so we can address these issues in training. The most simplistic answer when asking why these failures occurred is lack of training.

You see, most LE and security agencies operate on ever-shrinking budgets and due to budget concerns are finding that training above qualification standards just doesn't fit in anymore. Its sad really, but due to this lack of training in-house more and more public safety professionals are turning to private training clinics which has opened up a wonderful new market to civilians that was once closed to the public or completely unaffordable. Now we have trainers within reasonable distances of anybody in CONUS with affordable clinics for all kinds of combatives. Most importantly they can train you to think under stress and instinctively seek out and move toward cover and when you advance a little, deliver fire while doing so.

Most of these clinics can be attended for around $400 for two very intense and educational days. Of course there are added expenses like ammo/gas/lodging if you choose, but it should be worth every penny. There are many different websites devoted to practical gunfighting but if you don't want to browse around with that serious of a crowd I recommend listening to this podcast - http://www.gunfightercast.com/wordpress/ . Tons of good info and part of Gun Rights Radio Network.

So what is the lesson here? Armor is not a substitute for proper tactical discipline and that both armor and training should be in somewhere in your preps. However, in my opinion, training comes first.

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Here's a video to show deformation due to KE transfer even though the bullet didn't penetrate. Imagine the clay is your chest. Scary.